Highland Volcanoes and Arctic Shore

Program under construction

Great Discovery of the Central Highlands to the Arctic Ocean shore

A single departure 10 days from August 5 to 14, 2025

Day 01: From Reykjavik to Mount Hekla
140 km of road - 4-5 hour hike - Rjúpnavellir Hut

Meet your guide at 8:30 am at the meeting point in the center of Reykjavik in trekking gear, ready to go, with your daypack and your large trekking bag packed. (The meeting point will be communicated to you later. Any luggage that you do not need can be kept in the luggage room of your accommodation in Reykjavik) Departure towards the southeast on circle road Nr 1 via the villages of Hveragerði and Selfoss for 1h30 hours through the southern moors and farm lands to arrive in the village of Hella where our warehouse and headquarters are located in summer. There, we prepare the midday picnic, check your equipment, then load the food and equipment into the vehicle. Departure due north to the tiny farms of Hekla south of the volcano. These farms must have moved many times over the centuries and the farmers do not always agree on remembering the exact location of the grandparents' farm swallowed by a lava flow. Bucolic and dilapidated atmosphere, full of the charm of this strange countryside. Despite the nearby volcano, the landscape here is green, and some old lava flows are covered with moss and clumps of arctic birch barely larger and as old as "bonsai", creating with clear springs that spring from the chaos real Japanese gardens.

Day 02 – Mt Hekla - Nýjidalur
150 km on track – Nýjidalur Hut

Heading due north to begin the long desert crossing on the Sprengisandur track between the ice caps of Vatnajökull to the East and Hofsjökull to the West. Short stop on the way for a coffee and a waffle at Stora Versalir (The Great Versailles) former water service barracks set here in the middle of nowhere.

Day 03 – Nýjidalur – Húsavík
135 km on track – approx.3 hours hike - 50 km by road – Hotel in Húsavík

After 2 hours at altitude we reach the edge of the plateau and the track quickly plunges towards the valley of Skjálfandafljót, a raging glacial river flowing from the Vatnajökull ice cap to the North coast. A beautiful walk along the spectacular basalt organ canyon to the extraordinary Aldeyjarfoss waterfall. We continue along the river through a green valley until its junction with the circular road No. 1 at the beautiful but somewhat too busy Goðafoss waterfall. Now on the tarmac road we head due north through the pretty countryside of the vast Aðaldalur valley where the mighty glacial river Skjálfandafljót (The River of Shakes) still zigzags through meadows that intertwine with ancient lava flows, streams, ponds and arctic birch forests. This valley is outside the active ridge but large lava flows have spread to the ocean, creating beautiful pseudo-craters on the wetlands crossed where birds, sheep, cows and horses like to settle in silhouettes.

(Two optional paid options in Húsavík: 1) swimming at GeoSea 2) whale watching North Sailing if the weather is good

Day 4 - Húsavík – Raufarhöfn
Route 150 km – Hike 3-4 hrs – Hostel in Raufarhöfn

Tjörnes Peninsula Loop - Stunning hike along the impressive canyon of the mighty glacial river Jökulsá-á-Fjöllum (Glacial River of the Mountains) from Vesturdalur (Western Valley) to Ásbyrgi (Fortress of the Gods) via Hljóðaklettar and Rauðhólar (Red Buttes)

Hljóðaklettar and Ásbyrgi (70 km from Húsavík)
The mighty Jökulsá á Fjöllum has destroyed the craters of Hljóðaklettar (Echo of the cliffs) and only remnants remain standing, dikes and basalt organ assemblages, volcanic plugs, sills and lava flows. Erosion began with phreatomagmatic explosions during the series of eruptions, when water and magma met, but there was also constant fluvial erosion thereafter, including many large Jökulhlaups (Violent glacial outbursts). The shrubby vegetation that is abundant forms hanging gardens in these basalt fortresses, making the geological hell here seem like paradise. After the brick-red volcanic cones of Rauðhólar clattering through the surrounding green, the hike ends amidst woods, flowers and birds in the impressive open gorge of Ásbyrgi (Fortress of the Gods). It was once formed by the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, which, through glacial outbursts whose force is difficult for us to imagine, carved out a gorge in the shape of a horseshoe. But the real explanation for Ásbyrgi is in its other name "Imprint of Sleipnir", the eight-legged flying horse of Odin, the greatest of the Ás. One of its eight hooves is said to have violently struck the ground at this location. What we don't really know is whether this hoof strike was the result of anger or a misstep. (Ás, plur. Ásar, the gods of the Norse pantheon)

The Melrakkaslétta Peninsula, (70 km from Ásbyrgi) Literally in French “The moors of the grass dog (the Arctic Fox)” juts out into the Arctic Ocean, surrounded to the east by the Þistilfjörður (Thistle Fjord) and to the west by the Öxarfjörður (Axe Fjord). Its northern coastline is marked by numerous small peninsulas, one of which, the bright orange lighthouse at Rifstangi Point (Reef Point) is located at 66°32’ and constitutes the northernmost tip of Iceland. The narrow road winds all along the polar circle. The landscape that stretches as far as the eye can see is made up of old lava fields covered with moors and peat bogs, lakes and ponds. The only and rare isolated houses on the edge of the track are abandoned hovels and farms. Countless waders (small waders) populate the moors and the shores and whooper swans and loons occupy the lakes and ponds. Impressive quantities of stranded wood from Siberia are scattered on the large basalt pebbles of the shore. Our route reaches Raufarhöfn (Port of the Tear) a small fishing port lost at the end of the world

Day 5: Langanes Point - Möðrudalsöræfi tundra
Route 180 km - Hike 2-3 hours - Möðrudalur Farmhouse Inn

No one lives on the Langanes (Long Point) peninsula, a land where nothing could be cultivated, but where they exploited the seabird colonies, eiderdown, driftwood, shipwrecks and beached whales. We advance on Langanes to the colony of Northern Gannets installed on a promontory a few meters from the cliff.
We continue along the coast towards the south and at Vopnafjörður (Fjord of Arms) we turn inland. The road climbs to reach the highlands of Möðrudalsöræfi In the middle of the humid tundra, the farm of Möðrudalur was until a few years ago one of the most isolated and highest farms in Iceland. Naive and charming architecture in the middle of a magnificent, vast, welcoming and hostile landscape. These desolate highlands are home to thousands of pink-footed geese that can be easily observed from the track. In spring, large herds of wild reindeer are sometimes encountered.

Day 6: Hvannalindir Track – Askja
Track 100 km – Hike 2-3 hours – Shelter

Located in the center-east of the country on the highlands between Myvatn and the North of Vatnajökull, Askja is undoubtedly one of the most isolated points of interest in Iceland but also one of the most magical places on the island.
Askja is one of the mythical places of Iceland and to get there we will have to cross for several hours lunar landscapes of incredible beauty before reaching our goal at the refuge of Drekagil “the dragon's gorge”

Day 7: Askja
20 km round trip trail – 4-7 hour hike – Dragon Refuge

The first NASA astronauts who walked on the moon came here to train first to condition themselves. We will do the same today. Our refuge is located outside the crown that surrounds the large Caldera that can only be discovered on foot.
The center of the caldera is occupied by Öskjuvatn (Lake Askja), a splendid lake of a clear blue 217 m deep. In the middle of the Lake is a small island resulting from a lake eruption. On the pumice plateau by which we arrive just before the edge of Öskjuvatn, there is at the bottom of a disturbing funnel, another small lake of hot water of milky turquoise color. This is Viti (Hell).
On site, the contrast between Viti and Öskjuvatn is striking and the calm that reigns there makes the place even more magical. A smell of sulfur emanates from Viti.
Askja is a volcano located in the center of the Ódáðahraun lava desert at an altitude of 1515 meters and which is, with its 3000 km², the largest lava field in the world. The site belongs to the immense Vatnajökull National Park.
This caldera, or rather this stack of calderas, as we know it today was formed 10,000 years ago during an eruption. The region has experienced major volcanic eruptions: notably in 1875, and more recently in 1961.
The one in 1875 began in January and lasted several months. It was during this eruption that the small Vìti crater, known today for its turquoise water, appeared by exploding several times. Viti is in fact a maar: a volcanic explosion crater sometimes filled with a lake.
After a few decades of calm, the beginning of the 20th century saw several small eruptions again until the major one in 1961. A new eruptive fissure then opened to the northeast of the caldera and was active for two months. No less than 100 million cubic meters of lava were generated by this eruption.

Day 8: Herdubreid – Myvatn – Akureyri
Track 100 km – Road 150 km

Long day back. The trail passes through a clear water resurgence area as it approaches the imposing monolith of Herðubreið (Broad Shoulders) which peaks at 1682 m, an ancient subglacial volcano that stands out in this desert landscape.
Often nicknamed the "Queen of the Icelandic mountains", Herðubreið reigns in the middle of the Ódádahraun desert, literally "desert of crimes", takes its name from the past because it is here that outlaws rejected by society took refuge.
Lake Mývatn (Mý for midges and Vatn for Lake) is a phenomenal place that fascinates geologists-vulcanologists, entomologists, botanists, ichthyologists, algologists, microbiologists and especially ornithologists. All of these specialties are interconnected here.
Unfortunately, the most spectacular spots around the lake have become very popular with tourists, or even completely invaded for a few hours each day in summer by the cargo dumped on land by the large cruise ships that make a 24-hour stopover in the Akureyri fjord 100 km away. After having lived disappeared in an immense and deserted mineral world, the contrast is striking. It is surprising and very pleasant to spend the evening with friends in this small green and colorful town comfortably nestled at the bottom of its fjords. If you are limited in time, it is possible to interrupt the trip here and fly to Reykjavik early the next morning. (Additional conditions / Contact us)

Day 9: Akureyri - Vatnsnes
260 km - Farmhouse inn in Vatnsnes

Early departure and road towards the North to go around the Troll Peninsula. Go around the Giant Peninsula to reach the isolated fjord of Siglufjörður, former industrial center of herring fishing. Visit (optional and paying) of the interesting Sildarsafnid museum and the old canneries dedicated to the great epic of herring fishing which gave birth to this town at the end of the world. The vertiginous ledge road looks at the polar circle and takes us to the majestic fjord of Skagafjördur. Visit of the old village of Hofsós and its old tarred wooden warehouses, facing the impressive tabular islands of Drangey and Málmey.

The road then goes around the Vatnsnes peninsula through vast sheep moors where we meet herds of horses. Below the "estuary farm" we can observe a large colony of common seals (or harbor seals) and the photogenic and strange reef (a dike) of Hvítserkur.

Day 10 Vatnsnes- Reykjavik 200km

We finish going around the Vatnsnes peninsula to Hvammstangi where, as an option, there is the possibility of visiting an interesting small museum dedicated to pinnipeds. We find the circular road which takes us to Reykjavik where we arrive at the end of the afternoon

Itinerary and safety: the day-by-day program can be modified. However, these changes are quite rare and are imposed for safety reasons due to natural phenomena specific to the place: volcanism, early or late snowfall, bad weather, flooded rivers, exceptionally unfavorable weather, etc. The guide knows the terrain perfectly and is the sole master on board when it is necessary to interpret the whims of all-powerful nature on this volcanic land, and at these high latitudes, and make the necessary decisions.

Composition of the group: In general, the participants in our trips come from several countries: French speakers from France, Switzerland, Belgium and Quebec, but also English speakers: British, Irish, Americans (democrats), Canadians, Australians, even New Zealanders or other nations but who know how to express themselves in English: Scandinavians, Germans, sometimes a Japanese or a Russian (peaceful) and even a few Icelanders.
Your Icelandic guide is fluent in English and often has a command of at least one other European language. Traveling with Fjallabak can be a unique opportunity to meet, exchange ideas and socialize with companions from countries other than your own that you might otherwise never have approached. A unique opportunity to make friends from elsewhere and to dispel some deeply ingrained prejudices and misconceptions

Languages ​​spoken: the departure dates are all marked as:

English, this means that the guide and the group speak English. even if he or she probably also speaks other languages, including French. Participants come from English-speaking countries or participants from non-English-speaking nations who have a good command of English. If you want to put your English to the test, do not hesitate to register for an English-speaking group. A double experience for you.

International, (multinational would be more accurate) this means that the guide speaks both English and French (or possibly other languages). Participants can be from all over the world as long as they speak at least one of these two languages: French and/or English
This single departure is International

French, this means that the guide is French or French-speaking Icelandic. The group is then composed only of participants from French-speaking countries (Swiss, French, Quebec, Belgian, etc.) or non-native French speakers who want to test their French

Group size: Group of 8 to 14 (+/- 1) participants (Note: for groups of 6-7 people, a small group supplement applies) Fjallabak staff or Fjallabak representatives accompanying professionals (photographers, journalists, etc.) And other discounted travelers such as children, are excluded from the number of participants (minimum and maximum).

Early Bird Discount:

• 10% "Early Bird" discount up to 150 days before departure
• 5% up to 90 days before departure
  Family discount

This "Early Bird" discount does not apply to children who are entitled to the family discount

Family discount: Children accompanying their parents or grandparents are entitled to the following discount

• 10% discount for young people aged 12 to 17
• 20% discount for children from 8 up to 11

Small group surcharge and trip modification:

• 60,000 ISK (approx. + €400) for 7 participants
• 75,000 ISK (approx. + €500) for 6 participants

Lodging:

5 nights in a hotel and farmhouse - in made-up beds in a double-twin room (2 twin beds) with the possibility of a single room (1 single bed) if available. Toilets and bathrooms are shared or private.

5 nights in mountains huts in sleeping bags (your own) in  Bunks with comfortable mattresses. Running water and kitchen in the refuge, but the toilets and sinks are generally outside a few meters away in a small separate building. Hot showers are available for a fee in some huts. If you do not want too much promiscuity during sleeping hours or more privacy, we offer the possibility of sleeping in a tent but let us know at least two weeks in advance.

Electricity: bring enough batteries for your camera. Also take a normal charger (220v for standard European sockets)

Food in hotels: Breakfasts are served in hotels and inns and dinners are often excellent.

Food in the mountains:
In the mountains refuges your guide become the chef. We pride ourselves on providing the best cuisine in the highlands!

Breakfast is Scandinavian style, with muesli, breads, jams, smoked fish, cold meats and cheese, and peanut butter for our American friends.

Picnics are a bit repetitive after a week (we are here in Iceland, far from everything), with a variety of sandwiches, smoked meats and fish, salami, excellent local cheeses, green salad, tomatoes and cucumbers, fresh apple and dried fruits.

Dinners are varied and often excellent, include dishes of fish (trout, cod, halibut) and lamb dishes, rice, pasta or potatoes, vegetables and a green salad.

Have a friendly drink (or two)
For the sake of conviviality, but without obligation, you can bring a specialty from your home country as well as a good bottle of wine for your aperitifs at the end of the world. (Wine and alcohol can be purchased at the airport duty free, accessible to travelers arriving in Iceland)

Food, special diets:
It is essential that vegetarians specify what is banned from their menu, as are those who suffer from food allergies (to lactose, gluten, etc.). It is important that you inform us of your special dietary requirements at the time of booking. If the list is long or if there is a danger in relation to certain allergies, please give us details by sending a detailed email to these two addresses matta@fjallabak.is. This is so that the team of our warehouse can take it into account when preparing the food. Your guide will be aware of your diet, but he does not necessarily have the vocation of a naturopath, and therefore it will be up to you to talk to him about it again at the beginning of the trip when preparing the first meal! It is also up to you to check at each meal that it suits you. We will only be able to partially satisfy vegans who will therefore have to take the food supplements they need from home in their luggage.

Supervision: the team is made up of two people, the  guide and the driver of the 4wd truck. Below a certain number of participants the trip leaves with a single driver-guide

Vehicle: 4x4 bus type Mercedes Sprinter or Iveco

Trip preparation and notes: The hikes, on the days they are planned, are optional.  The level is moderate. You only carry a light hiking backpack containing what you need for the day. This trip does not present any serious difficulty for people in good physical shape with at least some experience of walking in nature. A person who cannot or does not want to walk can participate in this trip. But this may mean that you are alone with yourself or in the company of the English speaking driver during the time of the group hike.

An experienced and attentive Icelandic guide leads the trek. We are not in Nepal or in Africa but in Iceland, so for the nights spent in a refuge, the members of the group are expected to take turns giving their guide a little help in preparing meals, setting the table, doing the dishes and sweeping before leaving the refuge. Once in the mountains, the group becomes an independent entity. The camaraderie, teamwork and friendships forged add greatly to the richness of each person's experience. See the equipment list for more information.

Clothing
You’ll need to bring comfortable and adequate clothing to protect you from cold and wet weather, such as polypropylene, capilene, or pile. Wool and wool/synthetic blends are also suitable - though wool, if wet, dries slowly compared to synthetic fabrics. We discourage the use of cotton in wet conditions it dries very slowly. When camping, tents are provided. You will be responsible for bringing your mattress and sleeping bag.

When layering, the innermost layer should be long underwear. The middle layer can be a synthetic turtleneck or wool shirt, and pants. The outermost layer must be a breathable waterproof jacket such as a good quality Gore-Tex wind/rain parka and over-pants.
For quantities for each item listed, use your own judgement, based on the expected weather conditions and overall packing/weight restrictions for your luggage.

• Regular underwear. Synthetics are easier to wash and dry
• Synthetic thermal underwear
• Long-sleeved, synthetic or wool shirt
• Short-sleeved synthetic or cotton/synthetic T-shirts
• Medium-weight synthetic fleece sweater or jacket
• Full-length pants, quick-drying synthetic fabric
• Down jacket from mid-August to September (optional)
• Hiking shorts, quick-drying synthetic fabric
• Pile/fleece pants, ideal for around the camp
• Sun & rain hat
• Wool hat
• Gloves (wool or pile)
• Waterproofed shell gloves
• Medium weight synthetic socks
• Gore-Tex rain/wind parka
• Gore-Tex rain/wind pants
• Hiking boots, medium-weight, all leather, with padded ankle, good arch support, and a lug sole traction. Your hiking boots should be waterproof, well broken in, and suitable for rocky terrain or possibly snow.
• Comfortable shoes to wear when not hiking (optional) Teva-type sandals for river crossing. Absolutely recommended! Gaiters. Highly recommended.

Travel Accessories

• Comfortable sleeping bag +10°C to –10°C which can be opened all the way
• Cotton sheet for hut’s mattress
• Pillow if you can’t sleep without one (optional)
• Hiking poles
• Swimsuit and towel for hot spring bathing and swimming pool
• 1 to 2 liters capacity unbreakable water bottle or thermos
• Hermetic sandwich box
• Hiking mug
• Small hermetic bag with zipper for your wallet and passport
• Small hermetic bag with zipper for your mobile phone
• Headlamp or small flashlight with spare batteries (from August only)
• Swiss Army-type pocket knife (Must be kept in duffle bag, not in hand luggage, when flying !)
• Toiletry kit—soap, toothbrush, and so on.
• Moisturizing lotion. (The air in Iceland is very dry)
• Sunglasses
• Eye shades. Highly recommended!
• Spare pair of prescription glasses, prescription sunglasses, or contact lenses (but not only lenses, as wind-blown dust can make them very uncomfortable)
• Sunscreen and lip protection (The sun in Iceland is much more intense than you probably imagine)
• Personal first aid kit
• Netting hood

Optional Travel Accessories

• Binoculars
• Repair kit with needle, thread, and safety pins
• Reading and writing material
• Your favorite snack food such as raisins or chocolate
• Protein supplements for vegetarian
• 1 or 2 good bottles of wine or a bottle of something stronger